#Welcome#
Welcome to my tutorial map!

This map is the same one I use in my video tutorial series, only this time you don't have to listen to me blab
and can explore on your own.  I've left pads all along the way in the effort to provide a comprehensive tutorial
that goes into more depth than the official tutorial map.

If you're already familiar with the concept of electricity, go ahead and go outside.
If you're not, or just want a refresher, go down to the basement and step on the pads.

Either way, I hope you enjoy this map as much as I did making it.

-don_bruce


P.S. There're a few secrets hidden about.  See if you can find them all!

#IntroIntro#
Before you do ANYTHING with Electrical Age, you need to know about electricity and the four most common electrical properties.
They are:

Voltage
Current
Resistance
Power

#IntroVoltage#
Voltage is a measure of the potential for electricity to flow from one point to another.  Electricity always
wants to go from high potential to low potential, much like water wants to flow downhill.
A cable with 0V has no potential for electric flow, while one with 32000V has a lot.  Keep in mind, though, 
that voltage does NOT tell you how much electricity you will get, rather it tells you how fast it will get to you.

Another way to think of this is like water in your house.
Without any water pressure, you get no water out of your faucet, or no electric flow.  On the other hand,
a very high pressure faucet will get you a bunch of water.

#IntroCurrent#
While voltage may be the force of electricity, current is how much electricity is flowing (being moved) at one time.
While a pressure-washer might have a lot of pressure, or voltage, it doesn't actually move much water.
A tub, on the other hand, moves a bunch of water at a lower pressure.  The tub is similar to a high-current
low-voltage situation.

High current situations can be VERY dangerous in wires, as it can overheat the wire and cause a fire in a house,
or an explosion in Electrical Age.  Fuses or circuit breakers are installed in most homes/circuits to prevent these occurrences.
If you've ever blown a fuse or popped a circuit breaker, chances are it was due to too much current flowing through your circuit.
People may be tempted to replace a fuse or breaker with one of a higher amperage (the unit of current) to keep it from blowing but,
as the news and Electrical Age will show you, this is a VERY bad idea.

#IntroResistance#
So what actually causes the heat in high-current applications?  In this case, resistance is to blame.
When electricity flows through a wire, all the little electrons bump around, generating heat.
The amount of heat generated depends on two factors: the type of wire and the amount of electricity flowing.

Some wires, like copper, are really good at keeping electrons from bumping into each other.
Others, like nichrome, are specifically designed to make the electrons bang around and generate heat.
Either way, all wires have a resistance, which is how much the wire resists the flow of electricity.
A low resistance is obviously desirable, as any time an electron releases heat it loses some energy.

The amount of electricity flowing, or current, also makes a difference.  Even if you have a low-resistance wire,
putting a lot of electricity through it means a bunch of opportunities for electrons to bang around and generate heat.
If you've ever looked in a fuse-box or breaker-box, you'll notice that the circuits for large electrical appliances,
like ovens, heaters, and dryers, have large amperages.  This is because those circuits are pumping a lot of electricity
to generate that heat.  In most cases, you don't want heat out of your wires, so it's best to keep your amperages low.
This allows more electricity to get to your destination.

#IntroPower#
Power is the de-facto unit when considering electricity usage.  It's the product of voltage and current,
and has the unit of the Watt.  Power is how much electricity is being used per second.  While this might
seem odd when talking about electricity usage, you have to remember that all your devices are constantly
using electricity.  It's the RATE of electricity usage that's important when building circuits, not the
total amount of electricity needed.

One of the most important things to remember about power is that it's a CALCULATED unit.
As an example, consider a circuit with 200V and 10A, the nominal for a medium-voltage cable.
This circuit carries 2000W of power, which also happens to be the nominal power for that cable.
This is because you've reached the nominal current and voltage, NOT because the cable can't handle anymore.
Increasing the voltage or current to generate more power will either cause the cable to have too high a
voltage and blow up, or overheat due to too much current.  In fact, you can max out the voltage or current
on a cable and still not get the max power.  A high-voltage cable carrying 200V has a nominal 6.25A of current.
This means that it will have a nominal 200V*6.25A=1250W, much less than a medium-voltage cable.

Hence:
Higher voltages will allow you to get more power at lower currents resulting in less loss due to resistance,
letting you get the most power, or electricity, to your devices.

Remember this well, as it's a key point in designing circuits.

#Tut01Intro#
Most of the circuits here don't really do anything.  Rather, they serve as demonstrations of electrical properties.
If you already know the basics of voltage, current, resistance, and power, feel free to skip to the generator section.

#Tut01Basics#
The sign to the left contains a set of equations that are essential to calculating the electrical properties of cables.
Here's some explanation as to what they mean:

V1-V2=IR:
This equation states that the difference in voltage between two points in a wire (V1, V2) is equal to the
current flowing through the wire (I) times the resistance of the wire (R).

R=r*L
This equation states that the resistance of a length of a cable (R), as shown in equation 1 is equal to
the resistance of a cable (r) times the length of that cable (L).  (r) can be found in the tooltip for
each cable, and should not be confused for (R).  This is because the resistance between two points (R), as in equation 1,
is dependent on the total resistance between them, while (r) is only the resistance for a single block of cable.

P1-P2=I*(V1-V2)
This equation is important to remember when you are working with high-power lines.  It states that the difference of power
between points 1 and 2 (P1-P2) is equal to the difference in voltage between those points (V1-V2) times the current on
the cable (I).  This equation will tell you how much power is lost transferring electricity between points 1 and 2.
A large value of (I) makes (P1-P2) large, which means that large current loads will always lead to large power losses.
Similarly, a small value of (V1-V2) makes for small power losses, even if current is large.

P1-P2=I*I*R
This equation is similar to the one above, and for good reason.  This equation is made by substituting equation 1 into
equation 3.  This leads to an interesting result, as it shows that power losses in a cable are NOT dependent on voltage.
This is because, as we said above, voltage losses are due to a cable's current and resistance.

This equation shows a key concept in power systems:
The only way to reduce power losses and increase performance is to reduce current or resistance.

All of these equations are demonstrated in the circuits to the right.

#Tut01Les1#
These two circuits demonstrate how voltage is lost in cables according to equations 1 and 2.  If you'll probe the circuit
at the voltage source and light, you'll see that the voltage differs.

In the first circuit, the voltage is set to 50V at the source.  However, due to cable losses the voltage at the light is only 49.8V.
Seeing this, we can calculate the source voltage necessary to have 50V at the light.  This is done on the signs in front of you.
The left one calculates the resistance of the cable according to equation 2, the center calculates the current at the light,
and finally the right sign puts it all together to find out what the source voltage needs to be.

If you probe the right circuit, you'll see that our calculations work out correctly, as the light is now at 50V.

#Tut01Les2#
Hooking up one light is easy, but you'll probably want to hook up a lot more.

Hooking up 50 lights of the lowest power will require 500W total.  If we assume that all lights have a cable resistance of 1.125 ohms, 
then the total source voltage required to keep them all at 50V becomes 61.25V.  This is dangerously over the nominal voltage
of a low-voltage cable, but should hold.  If you want to max out the power capabilities of the cable and hook up 1000W of lights,
then you need 72.5V at the source.  This is guaranteed to blow up your cables, as it's way over the low-voltage cable's rating.

#Tut01Les3#
If you want to hook up more lights, you have two options.  The first is to make your cables shorter, so there's not as much resistance
and you don't have as much voltage loss.  The other option, is to simply run your lights at a lower voltage/power.

The lights in front of you, while rated to run at 50V, are only running at 40V and 35V.  This lower voltage also means that they
get less power, which is why the one on the right isn't doing so well.  While a 10V reduction might seem like it would help a lot,
it actually doesn't make much of a difference.  As the right sign shows, the required voltage for our 1000W of lights is 68V.
This still will result in an explosion.  The last sign shows why.  Even with the voltage and current reduction, the resistance
of the cable still sucks up too much power to keep the lights working.

#Tut01Les4#
The solution to getting more lights?  Just use higher voltage cables.  This wall of signs shows how higher voltages can be
used to power more lights.  As you can see, the higher the voltage on your cable, the less you have to put out in the first place.

This is because as you increase your voltage, you decrease your current.  As the sign on the left shows, for a constant power
a higher voltage means lower current.  This is great, as we've learned that power losses in cables can be reduced if we
reduce current (P1-P2=I*I*R).  Note how that equation has 2 I's in it.  That means that every time we cut down the current
by half, the power lost goes down to 1/4 of it's previous value.  This also means that even though the higher-voltage cables
have higher resistance, they actually loose less power than a low-voltage cable due to their low current.

Since power depends on voltage, current, and system load, it's easier to work with just voltage when setting up power systems.
The equations above you give a handy reference for long lines, as they'll let you know how 'lossy' your line is.
Just plug in your power requirements and approximate cable length.  If the resulting voltage is too low for you to work with,
then you should consider switching to a higher voltage system or distributing your load on multiple grids.

#Tut01Les5#
If you're going to be switching voltages, then you're going to be working with transformers.  Transformers work by multiplying
the voltage on one side by the ratio of cables placed in the cable slots.  As an example, a transformer with one cable on
the green side and four cables on the yellow will multiply all voltages on the green side by 4, and all on the yellow by 1/4.
Transformers are limited to 4 cables per slot, though you can put odd numbers in each to go to non-standard voltages.

#Tut01Les6#
Transformers, though, are particular and are prone to blowing up if wired incorrectly.
Each one of the bays here demonstrates a situation where you could blow up a transformer.

The first one contains an empty transformer plate connected to an 800V source.  Cables in transformers aren't exempt
from voltage limits, so if you put a 200V cable into either of the slots of this base it will overload and explode.
This is important to remember when adding transformers to live lines, as adding the low side before the high
side with a live high side will cause the transformer to blow.

The second bay demonstrates another quirk of transformers, in that a transformer base transmits electricity even
with no cables or coil present.  Since the voltage source is at 800V but the cable is 200V, placing a transformer here
will overload the cable and blow it up.  This can be especially annoying when bridging live systems.

The final bay contains a properly wired transformer.  This one serves to demonstrate the hazards of shift-clicking.
Doing so while in a transformer GUI will shove all of a cable into a slot.  Doing this can lead to you stepping
up a 800V line when you meant to step it down, getting you an explosion for your carelessness.

The chest to the left contains transformer parts, should you wish to blow things up for science.




#Tut02Les1#
All the circuits so far have been wired using voltage sources.  While these are good for demonstrations, you won't usually
use them in most practical circuits.  Turbines are both a reliable and versatile way to generate power, and are the primary
power sources in many power systems.

#Tut02Les2#
Turbines work by converting heat into electricity.  The exact formula for power output is complex and confusing, but
the fundamentals of turbine operation are quite simple.  One of the most important things to remember is that power is
conserved.  This means that whatever power goes into a turbine MUST come out either as electricity or heat.  In this
case, the stone heat furnace is generating 400W of power.  Of this 400W, about 85W comes out of the turbine as electricity.
The rest, or 300W, comes out of the rear of the turbine as heat.

#Tut02Les3#
If you were paying attention at the last station, you might have noticed that the numbers for power-in and power-out aren't
equivalent.  This is because the energy being fed into the turbine is in the form of HEAT.  This makes the cable and turbine
hot, which causes the heat to dissipate to the air.  When the heat is removed from the power system this way, it takes it's
energy with it, thereby causing a power loss at the turbine.

#Tut02Les4#
One way to prevent power loss due to heat loss is to directly connect your components.  Not only does this reduce the
spots for heat to run off, it also decreases the number of cables and copper you need.  The only drawback: you can't
get temperature or power readings from your system.

While interesting, heat loss to the air at the turbine won't be your main worry in turbine systems.  Rather, ANY power not being
used to generate electricity is waste.  The majority of the power that you put into a turbine ends up coming out of the rear
end as heat, not as electricity.

#Tut02Les5#
The other important aspect of turbine power generation is efficiency.  The more efficient the turbine, the better it will
convert the heat-power it receives into electricity.  Turbine efficiency is governed by two thermodynamic equations.

The first equation is quite obvious.  It is (n=Pe/Pi), where (N) is the efficiency of your turbine, (Pe) is the power output
on the electrical cable, and (Pi) is the power going into the turbine.  Ideally, a turbine would convert all of the power
that is piped into it into electricity, making (Pe/Pi) equal to 1, or 100% efficient.

The second equation, however, won't let you do that.  It is (Nmax = 1-Tc/TH) where (Nmax) is the maximum possible efficiency
of the turbine, (Tc) is the temperature on the cold side of the turbine, and (Th) is the temperature on the hot side of the
turbine.  This equation puts a cap on how efficient a turbine can be, but it also lets us see a way to make turbines more
efficient.  As the ratio of the hot to cold side gets larger, the turbine gets more efficient.  The best way to do this is to
add extra coolers to bring the temp of the cold side down, which is what we've done here.  Note that the input temp of the
turbine is the same as the previous setup.  However, because the turbine is more efficient, it produces electricity more 
efficiently.  Unfortunately, this extra electricity goes to power the cooler.

Coincidentally, these equations summarize the First Law and Second Law of Thermodynamics (with respect to turbines).
These laws are fundamental in calculating energy transfer, and have multiple applications in this mod.

#Tut02Les6#
Turbine efficiency really only comes into play when you're generating large amounts of power.  Turbines like to run at their
nominal ratings (300W for 50V and 500W for 200V), and attempting to run them higher or lower than those ratings will cause them
to be less efficient.  Under-heating a turbine means putting out less power from your heat furnace, which prevents the hot
side of the turbine from getting much hotter than the cool side, which results in a low maximum efficiency.  Over-heating
a turbine can cause an inadequately sized cooling system to overheat, resulting in low efficiencies and possibly explosions due 
to overheated components.  Remember, power is a function of voltage and current.  While your turbine 
might survive high currents and voltages, your cable system won't.




#Tut03Les1#
Turbines may be good for generating power, but turbine systems are large and consume many resources.  They also don't handle
changing power requirements well, since they're geared to operate best at nominal values.  Batteries offer a relatively cheap
way to increase the power output capabilities of your system, while doubling as a power storage device.

The one issue with batteries is that they lose their capacity over charge cycles.  The more charge cycles a battery goes
through, the quicker it will lose its capacity.  Battery capacity is also hurt when the battery is being charged or
discharged quickly, even if it isn't exceeding the maximum power rating.

There are many different types of batteries, each with their own specialty.

#Tut03Les2#
The basic battery is the cost-oriented battery.  This battery has average stats, and can be upgraded by crafting it with other
ingredients to produce other batteries.  Note that batteries have maximum voltage and power ratings.  Exceeding those ratings
is bad, as you probably already know.  Batteries also have a total energy storage value.  This is the maximum amount of energy
the battery can store.  Remember, power(W) is energy usage divided by time.  The more power you draw, the quicker your battery
will drain.

#Tut03Les3#
Capacity-oriented batteries offer large energy cells to hold more energy.  This comes at a cost; they have lower voltage
and power ratings that the cost-oriented battery.  Due to their low power rating, they are best used in low-drain applications,
such as small lighting circuits.  They also work great as a backup power source, since their high capacity makes for a long
running time.  Just make sure to have a circuit cut set to cut off any large power users, as the battery will overheat if overused.

#Tut03Les4#
Current-oriented batteries offer high power output at the cost of a reduced energy storage capacity.  They're the polar opposite
of capacity-oriented batteries, and as such are best suited to high-drain applications.  The fact that they have high power
output makes them ideal for use in circuits with large power demands for short periods, like transporters or defense turrets.
They can also be used in turbine power systems to provide additional capacity during load spikes.

#Tut03Les5#
Unlike capacity-oriented and current-oriented batteries, voltage-oriented batteries have the same capacity and power properties
as the cost-oriented batteries they're based on.  The only benefit these guys offer is an increased voltage.  This is helpful
in areas where space is limited, or where voltage is more important than power.

#Tut03Les6#
Life-oriented batteries have the exact same statistics as cost-oriented batteries, but are built to resist the fatigue that
comes with charging and discharging.  These batteries are great in systems where the battery is constantly being charged or
discharged, such as a power bank for a solar farm.  Note that life-oriented does not mean 'lasts forever'; an unbalanced 
power system that's hard on the batteries will still cause a life-oriented battery to lose capacity.

#Tut03Les7#
The oddball in the battery bunch is the single-use battery.  These guys have many advantages.  They offer the second-highest
capacity AND second-highest power output of all batteries, are the only battery that can be crafted without lead, have the 
lowest copper requirements of all batteries, and come pre-charged when crafted (opposed to 50% with other batteries).
The only catch is that they're single-use, which, considering that you can't re-use the copper in them, makes them a rather
poor choice in nearly any circumstance.

#Tut03Int1#
REFRESHER TIME!

If you have Railcraft installed, these three vertical tanks should be filled with steam.  Each one represents a battery
and its properties in terms of capacity and power.  Pushing the button on the tank releases a bit of the steam, which
equates to a second of operation.

The left tank represents the cost-oriented battery; it has an average steam capacity, and an average steam escape rate.
The center tank represents a current-oriented battery; it has a lower steam capacity but a higher steam escape rate.
The right tank represents a capacity-oriented battery; it has a higher steam capacity but a lower steam escape rate.

Go ahead and push the buttons.  This is a interactive exhibit!

#Tut03Int2#
REFRESHER TIME! (Continued)

These two tanks demonstrate how differences in voltage can lead to differences in power.  The left tank is filled with
lava, a slow-moving fluid, while the right tank is filled with water.  Push the buttons to let the fluid flow.  Note how
the tank with water in it fills up faster, even though the hole is the same?  Fluid pressure, or how fast the fluid wants
to go, is analogous to voltage, in that higher pressures are able to provide more power.  Note that a fluid can have a high
pressure but not a high flow rate.  A pressure washer takes slow-moving house water, pressurizes it, and releases it
at the end of the nozzle.  It's at this point that the water releases its extra energy.  Cutting off the end of the washer
stops the flow of water, but doesn't reduce the pressure.

#Tut03Les8#
You can't just plop a battery in a circuit and expect it to work.  Batteries are quite sensitive to improperly wired setups,
and will readily deteriorate or explode if abused.  One of the most important factors in battery usage is voltage.  A battery
tries to provide at least 50V when it's outputting power.  This means that in order to charge a battery, you'll have to have
the circuit going to it higher than 50V.  How much higher, is an important question.

Right now, the battery on the left is connected to a 55V source with the switch cut.  It's mostly discharged, meaning that
it will readily suck power from the 55V circuit (P=IV, remember!).  This makes this battery a literal ticking time-bomb, as
the high voltage difference will cause a high power consumption, which will overheat and explode the battery.

The battery on the right is connected to a 53V power source, and is quite safe to turn on.  In general, you shouldn't feed batteries
more than 3V over their rating, unless the battery is mostly charged.

#Tut03Les9#
Turbine power systems can be easily configured to charge batteries with the addition of a voltage probe.  The one in this system
is set to keep the line voltage between 52 and 55 volts.  This is good, as 53V charges the battery quickly, but not dangerously so.

#Tut03Les10#
Like in real-life, batteries have positive and negative terminals.  Wiring the wrong ends together can cause a short-circuit,
resulting in a blown battery or wire.  The fact that batteries have two ends means that, again like in real-life, voltages can
be stacked if batteries are wired in series.  This means that you can mix and match voltages by running lines off of different
parts of your battery bank.

#Tut03Les11#
On the subject of battery connections, make sure to have enough batteries to adequately power ANY device that might come on-line.
A turbine power system will simply fail to supply enough power if overloaded, but a battery will happily blow itself up trying
to meet power requirements.  You can add in an overvoltage protection and overheating protection chip to prevent this, but 
if you're running up against this often, it means that your power system is either under-sized, or inadequately balanced.
A properly-regulated power system has no need for any protective devices.



Though it wouldn't hurt to add some, just in case.

#Tut03Les12#
This final setup is an interactive example of how load balancing works.  Each battery in the circuit is capable of providing
250W of power.  The needle behind each battery shows how much power is being drawn out of it, with the red end representing
the max safe power rating of the battery.  Each macerator will try to draw 400W of power.  It doesn't take an engineer to
figure out that one battery won't power a macerator for long without exploding.  Go ahead and run one macerator with two batteries.

After a while, turn on a third one.  Notice how it's providing more power than the other two?  This is because the other two
batteries have lower voltages, and thus will contribute less power to the circuit.  This is the reason manufacturers tell you
not to mix old and new batteries; the power differential could cause the fresh battery to overheat.

Feel free to play around a bit.  Just watch the needles!

#Tut04Les1#
When it comes to power systems, turbines offer more versatility and configuration options than any other system available.
There is actually no 'best system' when it comes to turbines, rather there are many different setups, each with their own
specific specialty.

Each of these four 'bases' has the exact same power consumption devices.  The only difference is the turbine setup in the
basement.  All signs are located there for the duration of this section.

#Tut04Les2#
This is perhaps the most basic turbine setup you can make.  All it contains is a stone heat furnace, 50V turbine, and two
passive coolers.  It is also the most dangerous.  Right now, the stone heat furnace is running at 100%.  It can do this safely, as
the power draw from the two lights on the circuit totals 240W.  Due to the inefficiencies in this setup, the turbine maxes out at
a power output of 250W, not the nominal 300W that it's rated for.  The problem comes if one of the two lights burns out, or if the
power demand goes down.  In this case, the turbine will over-power the circuit and explode.

The other problem with this setup is that there's no room for any extra devices.  The button on the front wall turns on the
macerators upstairs.  When they cut on, the turbine suddenly finds that it can't provide enough power.  This results in a steady
decline in the circuit's voltage until the power consumption at that voltage equals the power the turbine can generate at that
voltage.  In general, the greater the power deficiency, the lower the voltage will drop.

#Tut04Les3#
This setup is a small upgrade from the previous one.  It adds in a second turbine, and a single combustion chamber upgrade in
the first furnace.  This allows the turbine system to meet the load requirements of the macerators.  Although the voltage drops
a bit when running them, it stays high enough to make the system usable.

Note, though, that the turbines are running at half their nominal power rating most of the time.  Turbines are geared to
run at their nominals, and running them half-strength causes them to consume more coal per unit of electricity produced
than ones running at nominal ratings.  This means that the turbine in the previous room is actually MORE efficient than
either of these two, despite it being run at 100%.

#Tut04Les4#
This setup is a bit more advanced, in that it's the first time we've combined a turbine and a battery in a power-supply
network.  The turbine is one of the most efficient 50V setups, consisting of an active cooler and two stone heat furnace
combustion chamber upgrades.  This means that the hot side will be really hot, the cold side will stay cold, and the
turbine can produce more power as it has a greater efficiency.

If you look on the walls, you'll see that the batteries are more than capable of providing the extra 400W needed to run the
macerators.  Also note that only one of the batteries is on, and has a lower life-span that the one that's off.  If you turn
the macerators on now, the turbine system will kick up and provide the majority of the power.  The battery is left to provide
the rest.  Since the turbine setup is efficient, it produces more that its nominal power, which allows the battery to stay just
under its safe power output.

The problem is that this output is so close to the safe level, that it damages the battery.  That's why there's a second battery
present.  Without it, the first battery would eventually die, and the macerator would fail to work.

#Tut04Les5#
This setup might seem like the previous one, but it provides power completely differently.  Instead of having the turbine
always running and using the batteries as a supplemental power source, this setup uses the batteries as a primary power
source and the turbine as a supplemental one.

It does so by using a probe reading voltage, probe reading power, and signal box with a RS equation.  How the probe works
should be self-explanatory from the GUI, but the signal box may not be.  An RS equation causes the signal probe to output
a value when the (S)et parameter is > .6, and shuts it off when the (R)eset parameter is < .6.  Since the B-side is fed by
the voltage probe, this signal box will output when the voltage is lower than 100*.45=45V, and will shut off when the voltage
is higher than 100*.50=50V.  The RS equation normally outputs a value of 1, or 100%, but in this case it's multiplied by the A-side.
Because the A-side is hooked to the power probe, this causes A to have a value of 0 when the turbine power output is greater than
650W, and 100 when the turbine power output is less than 550W.

The net result?  When the voltage on the line drops below 45V the turbines kick on and run at their most efficient power output 
until the batteries are charged enough to bring the line voltage above 50V.  This setup is one of the best, as it uses fuel the
most efficiently, has a high power capacity, and can be reconfigured to run with only one turbine.  The only drawback?  The
constant changing and discharging cycle will eventually wear out the batteries, especially if the system is high-load.

#Tut04Les6#
If you haven't forgotten already, cables cause a power loss to any electricity transmitted through them.  The longer the cable,
the more power you lose, and the lower the voltage will be on the other end.  Both this building and the neighboring building
have the exact same lighting, wiring, and power requirements.  The only difference is that this building is wired for 50V lines, 
while the neighbor is wired for 200V.  Each building is wired to cycle each floor's lights on and off in sequence, starting with
the first floor and going to the fifth.  Since each floor's supply cable is a different length, the power drop will be different 
for each of them.  The graph on the left shows how much power the turbine system down here is generating, while the one on the 
right shows how much power the lights that are currently on are getting.  Notice that the difference between the power generated
and the power received at the floor is greater for higher floors.  This is because the cable losses are larger.

Also notice that for higher floors, the turbines actually generate less power.  This also has to do with cable losses, but in this
case it's due to the lights, and not the cables themselves.  As you know, the power losses in long cables also cause a voltage
drop on the other end.  This results in a lower power demand from any attached device, which means the turbines don't have to
produce as much power to meet that demand.  As a rule, the power source determines what voltage it will operate at, but the
device on the other end decides how much power it will take at that voltage.

#Tut04Les7#
Unlike the 50V building, this building doesn't lose a bunch of power to cable losses.  As you can see, this results in a
relatively flat line when it comes to the differences in power received by different floors.  In general, 200V systems should be 
used in place of 50V systems, except where the power needs are low or close to the source.  For most bases a 50V system is still 
a good option, due to its low resource requirements and the lack of complexity when connecting components.  While a 200V system
may be more efficient in terms of energy usage, it's not by any means efficient in terms of materials.  It takes many hours of
operation to pay back the energy savings spent crafting and constructing the advanced components for a 200V system, so chose wisely.

#Tut04Les8#
This tower is a comprehensive summary of power transmission properties.  If you can understand what's going on in here, then
you should be able to fix any power problems you might encounter on your lines.

The first thing you should do is head up the ladder on your right when you first walk in.

#Tut04Les9#
These two turbines are capable of putting out over 1000W of power without breaking a sweat.  What's more important, is how
the power is transmitted.  Once the power comes out of the turbines, it gets fed into the transformers up here and goes
down the central pole in the four different cables and their respective voltages.  The cables with higher voltages, obviously,
are better at transmitting this power.  I've colored the cables to match their type/voltage, so it's easier to see what
voltages exist where.

#Tut04Les10#
Down here each of the cables have their voltage transformed back into 200V.  This 200V line is fed into the furnaces in the front of
the building.  One of them has a 400W power requirement, while the other has an 800W requirement.  If you listen carefully, you can 
hear relays clicking and hum of transformers energizing.  This is because the tower cycles between furnaces and cables in a
11, 12, 13, 14, 21, 22, 23, 24 cycle.  Or more verbally, 50V cable with 400W furnace, then 200V cable with 400W furnace, then 800V
cable with 400W furnace, the 3200V cable with 400W furnace, and then the same pattern with the 800W furnace.

#Tut04Les11#
These five data loggers are one of the best examples when it comes to the relationship between power, voltage, and power
transmission methods.

Notice that generator capacity, generator power output, and generator voltage are linked.  The closer the generator is to
its capacity, the more power it is producing.  Also note that the generator load and power spikes for a bit when it first
kicks on.  This is common with turbines, as they take a bit to react to sudden load changes.  This spike shouldn't hurt your
system, as the voltage drops at this point.  This means that the high power spike is caused by a high-current low-voltage
situation.  High current causes heat, but won't explode the cables right away like high voltages will.

The other important take-away from these graphs is that the furnace voltage and power has no spikes or dips.  This might seem
odd, as you would think the power spike or voltage drop would make it's way down to the bottom level.  Transformers seem to
store a bit of energy in this mod, and I suspect that they cause some of the spikes in this section.  Either way, the
important thing is that the furnaces are powered at a constant rate, which is dependent on their power requirements
and the cables that the power is being transmitted on.

#Tut05Les1#
Despite their usefulness and flexibility, turbines still require planning, regulation, and fuel.  In the spirit of realism,
Electrical Age offers other ways to generate power.  While the power output might not be as high on these devices, they make
up for it with the fact that they require no maintenance or fuel, and won't explode by overpowering the circuit.

Go ahead to learn about alternate energy methods, or head into the transporter to learn about powering factories.

#Tut05Les2#
The most reliable of the three alternative energy sources is water power.  Waterwheels output a small amount of power at ~50V.
Since they're powered by water, they can be configured to work anywhere with just a water source block.  Due to their low
power output, they're best suited to charging batteries.  This makes them great in remote places that don't need power constantly,
like mines, remote outposts, and underground shelters.

#Tut05Les3#
A more powerful alternative energy option is the wind turbine.  Wind turbines produce more power than water turbines, though the
exact amount of power produced is subject to change based on the wind.  The drawback to wind turbines is the same one that
plagues real wind turbines; space.

Wind turbines need a minimum amount of space to operate.  Specifically, each turbine needs a 5X5X7 space to operate effectively.
This means that you'll need quite a bit of space when making a wind farm.

#Tut05Les4#
Solar panels offer the most power per block of all the alternative energy sources.  The only problem?  They only work during
the daytime.  Solar panels work best when pointed directly at the sun, so mounting your panels should be your primary
concern.  Right-clicking the panel's GUI will allow you to change the rotation angle to best capture the sunlight.  If you
don't feel like doing this all the time, just put a solar tracker upgrade in the panel.  This will make it follow the sun as it
goes across the sky.

One other note about panels: they are the only item besides batteries that requires grounding.  The panels behave similarly
to batteries (which you should know how to wire by now), in that you can place them end-to-end to stack voltages.  This also means 
that they'll blow up if you wire them incorrectly.  Make sure to put the red(positive) side to the blue(negative) side when 
changing them, otherwise you'll get a bad voltage at the output, or ground a 15V solar panel at the ground node.

#Tut05Les5#
Sometimes you'll find that your power needs are greater than what a battery bank or simple two-turbine setup can provide.
In this case, you'll need to make a power plant.  The setup for these are similar to what you would put in a base, with the
only major difference being the output voltage and cooling requirements.

#Tut05Les6#
When you scale up a power system, you increase its cooling requirements quite a bit.  Unlike small power systems, large
power systems will overheat much easier if overdrawn.  If you're using the power coming out of a turbine bank to cool the
bank itself, you run the risk of exploding your bank.  This happens because not enough power goes to the coolers, causing them
to overheat.  This can be avoided by slowly ramping up the load on the system.

A better way to prevent this from happening, however, is to use a separate system to power your coolers.
If you look at the back of this room, you'll notice that there's a separate system that runs the main bank's coolers and
the lights in this room.  Since the coolers and lights use a constant amount of power, the system will never run the risk
of underpowering the coolers.  This means that the main bank will never overheat, no matter what load is placed on it.

#Tut05Les7#
If you look around you, you'll notice that the power circuit going to the autominers in this room is full of transformers.
Each autominer is fitted with a diamond drill tip, which uses 2kW of power.  Since each bank has 3 autominers in it, this
means that each bank uses 6kW of power.  Even though autominers run on 800V, 800V cables are only rated for a nominal 5kW.
This means that the power must be transmitted on 3200V cables.

An important thing to note here is that current limits are only enforced on CABLES.  This means that even though an 800V
cable has a nominal of 6.25A, a transformer is capable of transmitting more current (and thus more power).  This same rule
holds for the turbines in this room.  Even though the turbines produce power at 200V, they aren't subject to the current
limitations of 200V cables.  It's because of this feature that we can produce power for the autominers in such a compact setup.

#Tut06Les1#
This building demonstrates how to use regulators.  The first floor is all about the different types of regulation, while the second
floor contains a highly-regulated power system.  The basement also contains a power system, though it's just the one that I built
during my seventh video.

You should go right first to start the tour.

#Tut06Les2#
Stone heat furnaces can be regulated by placing regulators inside of them (duh).  Regulators allow you to set a temperature for the
furnace to run at by using the left slider in the furnace GUI.  The furnace will adjust its power output and fuel consumption to
keep this temperature.

Analog regulators constantly adjust the furnace power output to hit just the right level to maintain the correct temp.  This means
that the furnace will always be consuming coal, as it's always on.

#Tut06Les3#
A better option here is to go digital.  Digital regulators also try to keep the furnace temp at a set point, but will oscillate the
furnace from producing max power to producing no power.  This means that the furnace isn't always on, so it doesn't always consume coal.

Note that the electrical furnace connected to this unit also has a regulator.  Heat is what makes the electrical furnace work, and
it will happily keep drawing power off your line to get hotter.  This means that a relatively hot furnace will still use a bunch of
power, even though it's working pretty quickly.  Regulators can be used to prevent this, by cutting the power to a furnace when it
reaches a set temp.  Note that this doesn't override the auto-shutoff feature when the furnace runs out of items to smelt.

#Tut06Les4#
This setup is similar to the previous one, except the furnace uses a 1% digital regulator instead of a 10% one.  The percentage
is a set point in that the furnace will kick on if the temp goes below 1% of the set value, and cut off when it's 1% above the
set value.  Also note that the electrical furnace is on a switched circuit, rather than internally regulated.

Since the furnace is set to keep itself at a specific temperature, it will produce as much power as it need to stay at this
temperature.  This power gets fed into the turbine, as it has to go somewhere.  You'll notice that this causes a rise in voltage
whenever the electrical furnace is not connected.  This is one of the huge drawbacks of internal regulators: they aren't good for
variable-load systems.  If you don't watch your voltages, a thermally regulated stone heat furnace can easily cause your
system to overvolt and explode.

#Tut06Les5#
A much better way to regulate your power system is with a voltage probe.  This guy reads the voltage off a cable and outputs a signal.
This signal can then be fed back into a stone heat furnace, which can be set to regulate its power output based on the signal of
the voltage probe.  When done correctly, you can effectively keep the voltage on a power line constant.  This is a much more reliable
way to regulate a system, as it keeps the voltage steady even if the load varies.  The only drawback is that you run the possibility
of overheating your furnace system if you have it inadequately cooled.  You should always size your cooling system to allow a
furnace-turbine setup to run at max power anyways, so this shouldn't be a problem if you make your setup correct.

Remember PowerIn=PowerOut!

#Tut06Les6#
If you're going to be taking voltage readings, where should you take them.  At first it would seem like a good idea to take them
at the end of your power system, to make sure that they are operating at the correct voltage.  The only problem, besides running
a long signal cable back to the furnace, is accounting for the cable losses.  By now you should know that cables cause voltage to 
drop when transmitting electricity.  If you regulate your furnace to keep the voltage constant at the end of a cable, you run the
risk of having too high a voltage at the start of the cable.  Sometimes you'll just have to deal with lower than ideal voltages,
especially if you're transmitting a bunch of power over a long cable run.

If you're looking for a physical example of this phenomenon, press the switch on the wall in front of you.  It toggles the furnace's
voltage control input from the beginning of the cable to the end of the cable.  Note how the power transmitted increases when
you use the end-line voltage probe.

#Tut06Les7#
This control room is very complicated, so pay attention!

The power system in this room consists of a main power turbine, a cooling turbine, a battery bank, and 4 electrical furnaces.
The monitors on the left give readings for all the major subsystems, like turbine temp and power output.
Alarms are located above the monitors, and will sound off if any reading is deemed unsafe (e.g. too high a voltage).
This system is designed to be super-efficent, so the fans for the active coolers will only kick on if the main bank temp exceeds 50C.
By default, the system will try to keep the voltage on the line between 200V-250V, and will produce power between 900W-1200W.
If the power demand is less than 900W it will produce as much power as needed to keep the voltage up.
However, if the power demand is greater than 1200W, the system will choke, setting off a warning alarm.
In this case, you'll have to override the system's controls using the voltage override switch and dial.
This will cause the system to regulate itself to the voltage on the voltage override dial, and ignore the internal power regulation.
You can also press the button on the end to engage/ disengage the overhead battery bank.
Note that these do NOT have protection chips on them, so they will explode if engaged on a low-voltage circuit!

To control the system load, use the middle dial.  Note that the load increases at 20%, 40%, 60%, and 80%.
The system will sound a voltage alarm during warmup.  This is normal.

#Tut06Les8#
If I was to explain all the regulation in this room, I would fill up your whole screen with text.  Safe to say, I'm not going to
do that.  What I will say, though, is while the majority of the equations in the signal boxes were created by calculating things,
a few were found just by plugging-n-chugging numbers.  Sometimes you just have to try things to see what works!

#Secret1#
Secret1

I'm surprised you're all the way down here.  You must really be looking for these secrets!

Here's a tip worthy of your time:
Try putting some coal into the macerator upstairs.
Next, take the coal dust that came out and put it in the compressor.
Finally, take the coal plates that were just made and run them back through the compressor.
Let me know what you think of the results.

#Secret2#
Secret2

I see you've gone exploring.  Well, since you've walked all the way up here, I can part with a tidbit of knowledge:

Did you know that the hanging light fixture above your head is actually more than just decoration?  It's true!  Notice how
it swings a bit in the air?  The light fixture can actually react to your touch if you run into it, causing it to swing more.
Wind also has an effect on the light; during a rainstorm an unsheltered lamp will swing faster and further than a sheltered one.


#Secret3#
You didn't think there was anything up here did you?

